white wheels, well, the rim and the spokes with a Hope Pro II hubs blue, and the case is that the rims and the hubs did not cost me anything to find, but the radios, surprisingly, it took me more than he bargained for the mere fact of being white.
Anyway, I assumed he was going to find chainreaction, and that was it, but the price was about 3 euros for radio! incredible, 64 radios will go about 200 euros, in short, was clearly not going to pay that for a steel spokes with powder coat painted in a titanium would understand, but in a normal or speak. I saw the Halo brand of radio kits had enough colors, http://www.halorims.com/ so I started looking for radios of this brand, and in Europe found a seller online that was not in my size.
I started looking for more online stores, and also asked by mail in a couple physical stores in Spain and I'm still waiting for my answer, one being Halo distributor in Spain, sorry. The prices were very very high as well, and they had all sizes, in my case I needed 64 radios in 262 mm, well, purists would have been 32 at 261.4 and 32 in 261, but the difference is negligible in my case .
finally found a kit of 100 radios Halo! in many sizes to $ 37 in a shop in Chicago. With the current exchange rate of the dollar, for 40 € shipping included I have my Halo 100 radios at home. In case you are interested in buying them http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/ . This store has very good prices, and small packages like this the shipping is very low, about 15 dollars.
just colleagues, I can not believe that in this country, we have to buy some wire painted white to USA, so we go ... and no radios.
Here you have a photo, some radios are very good and a well applied poweder, perfect for your white wheels. Also come with 100 leaders, these are black, but I am going to put in silver, I have tons in storage.
Cleaning and greasing bearings in Press Fit Shimano cups.
Hello fellow
After 1500 km and a long year of use, along with plenty of hose down and washed trot of all kinds, including muddy, the drive side bottom bracket of my Spicy 316 had enough. That was harder than anything else. So Here I put some pictures of something that is not documented for almost any site. In fact we owe to forero nacho81 of foromtb, which was one of the first that made it and explained it to me but could not document. So goes for you Nacho.
The truth is that the procedure is simple, but you have to be careful when removing the cap and overalls, pull out and are very very thin, and it is easy from there, especially the outside of the top, I've taken both with a large cutter pushing out little by little to different areas until it has gone.
must be said that the fact of using bearings unsealed and carrying a dust to protect them only when the seals today are worth two dollars, because .... as I find a bit shabby, at least caged van, because they were just missing loose ball. While it is true that a sealed bearing, is not that free entry of water and filth, if it is something more than these, and also prevent the simple use and the centrifugal forces that occur when rolling escape more fat than they should, because in my case, turning the main problem was that they were very dry (especially the right) and lack of fat in the nuts
favor of the system, we must say that Spicy wash to hose down the petrol station, and not cut my hair to wash all over the place, but no traces of rust at all. So the dust does its function as water is concerned, which is important. The more dust sealed bearing combination would be perfect.
Hope you brico be useful, because as I said, dry bearings were more fat than the roe, the change has been important, now much smoother roll.
grease I used was the web super rock and roll that is specific for bearings, but any consistent fat guess is valid.
Some photos are slightly blurred, aghhh, but it is well appreciated that the process is easy, let it.
The first course is to remove the rods and allow the bearing to the eye.
Then, with a cutter or something thin and flat, we are pushing out the outer cover, putting the flat on the cutter by the small gap between the lid and the bowl until ready to rise. Careful here, the outer plastic cover is really thin and break easily.
After removing the lid as you can see the dust. It is important that before doing anything to give him good degreaser so you can see where to put the cutter, if not, with so much filth and fat do not see anything
now slowly pry the sides of the dust ends up leaving, it's easy.
Well, these are two parts to be removed to get full access to the bearings, as you see are very simple, you catch and cleanse the well with oil both also . When you return to to not get confused with the dust, on the one hand is rubber and the other is flat and metallic, as the rubber part out, and the metal inward contact bearings.
Well, at this point, we have bearings on the face, now you catch spray degreaser to remove all the crap and a toothbrush and clean well, without fear , then we will either fat. I use the degreasing of the Decathlon, which is great for these issues.
Once
count him All clean and dry, then give tuti fat, I recommend that after giving the fat and before covering all bear a finger around the bearing so that the fat is well distributed, and that when you put the boot then quitéis all the surplus fat, otherwise you will attract all the dirt then I catch. The web super rock and roll will stay there forever, I know from experience, I personally use for almost everything.
As I said, after putting the boot, do not forget to remove any excess fat well, if you leave it as the next picture, bad business.
And finally put the plastic cover and marching greased BB camaraderie and another 1500 km! While I believe the next change them for a enduro.
Once you've assembled it all, remember a few laps to the pedals so that the fat evenly distributed finish and hand in those pedaling notice the difference and how soft it is now compared to before. I hope you find it useful, just about to be careful when removing the cover and the dust, especially with the first
Well, on to the last entry for this protections. The truth is that we have spoken so far of basic protections you can use forever, and we analyzed those protections also advanced to the world the fall, freeride, and aggressive practices such as in "gross enduro. To finish the series will see a kind of protections that only make sense if you do freeride descent or because they are designed exclusively for these disciplines. As always, I say, any protection is never over, but I will discuss below, are somewhat excessive for normal use.
I'll talk about three types of protections, namely specific neck, breastplates and protections buttocks, hips and noble parts.
Let's start with the wahoo. The bibs have a duty to protect primarily the spine, part of the pectoral, and sometimes the rib area, and often also bring comprehensive protection for shoulders and arms, elbows and not only if no elbow, arm and forearm, so rather than higher armor vests could call.
I personally use the following brand Brand-X that you see in the pictures on the right. It has a very good price in ChainReaction . I can assure you that a breastplate of these features for 70 euros is a real bargain. As usual price around 150 euros. This model has "kissed" the ground on several occasions, and although they have been falling rapidly, has saved me from breaking my shoulder twice, it is very hard and plastic it up very well resist knocks and falls.
If you watch it also takes a plastic and neoprene fabric reinforcements quite thick in the areas where no plastic. Err a bit of protection in the lower chest and rib area. Although there is in various sizes (and it is very important that you buy the exact size that does not move or press), has several adjustable Velcro to fit the width of your shoulders and chest protection can be raised and down a bit, so it is very customizable. Choosing right size is very comfortable, fits well and does not touch the body anywhere. Spinal protection is very large, and covers almost all back plus column. In addition, the neck is fairly wide and comfortable, which will allow you to use a specific neck protection. In short, if Dickey're looking for a medium-high to a low price. This is the best thing from my point of view.
is important to know that you can buy all the protections that make up an armor breastplate or separately. You can buy just the backpack, shoulder pads, chest protector, etc.. From my point of view it makes no sense unless you want to mix components for other reasons such as increased mobility, quality, etc. I'll give you some examples of back and chest protection you can buy separately from the mark 661.
Since we mentioned the protections of the neck, we mess with them. The first thing to say is that the protections of neck started to show not long ago in the world of motocross. And as the discipline of the decline is quite similar, they started to make some riders of this kind was to buy existing protections for the motocross and use them to DH. Even in the world of motocross there are very few brands and models for this type of protection, and to this day, to my knowledge, there are only two, Leatt and Alpinestars. It happens that both a mark just like the other protections frabric motocross-specific, not DH, and this poses a problem, by bike down the posture is long overdue and this forces to lift and throw your head back, and this is the problem, because when use a motocross protector may not bother you and let you raise your head to the level you want and the comfort you need.
also have to take into account other factors that are more or less pronounced depending on the helmet you wear, because the hulls of descent (even though almost the same as the motocross) are a little higher, I mean left exposed neck more than the bike to facilitate the movement of the head, therefore, cervical protection function may be impaired.
Fortunately, the brand Leatt, has realized this and has made a specific neck protector downhill bike, and it is this, the model DBX Leatt. To my knowledge, is the only product specifically for neck protectors decrease in MTB. Its appearance is as follows:
In the picture you can clearly see that the objective of these protectors is that the neck does not "bow" before a fall, and maintain its verticality relation to the body as possible. Due to its complexity and ability to adapt and type of injuries avoided, I recommend you go to the home page Leatt (South African brand of course) so you can find out about it. It's not something you can buy like crazy, first because it is expensive, about 250 euros a model "cheap", and 400 euros more expensive, lightweight and secondly because I do not think that this safeguard of all, read well protected and no.
Its weight is between 500 and 700 grams, so between that, the helmet and breastplate, you are putting considerable weight on the upper body to be moved. It is therefore important to examine the compatibility of the guard with your bib and helmet.
Leatt
The good thing is you only have two sizes (S and M) and M is for adults in general, but as has many settings and you can customize the fit to your size. This is a success because almost assures us that we will enforce the protective measures unless you have something atypical.
So, you know, if you buy a neck protector, analyze things well, is a strong pocket. I'm buying the model DBX Comp II in January or February, so I'll tell you.
I had the opportunity to talk with people in person Leatt last Festibike in Madrid and I was told it works quite well and the injuries avoided, and an important aspect is that it reduces drastically the number of lesions of clavicle, which is one of the most common injuries. But better you put a video of another bike fair in explaining all existing models to bike.
What if it is extremely important to understand is that the use of a neck protector does not guarantee at all that you have a neck injury, for sure the most serious and terrible of all. Only ensures that you can reduce your risk of injury, that's all. As I always say, these are protections, no jacket. And at a stroke really important, you're not secured against anything. As carefully and know your limits.
However, a Leatt can be very useful in case of serious fall, and if not, look at this video, which also explains as it protects the neck probably saved him from the wheelchair to the BMX rider. ; And here an important fact, after a piñazo "well, we should see whether the guard should not go away and buy a new one.
Finally, let's talk about the protections of buttocks and hips. The first thing to say is there are not many guards in this regard, and it is surprising, since the "culetazos" is something really common in the fall, and the few I know are motcross brand. The most advanced I've seen (not tried) is the model Alpinestars Bionic Freeride MX . We must recognize that if you're wearing all the protections we have discussed so far, more than this, your security level is really high.
protection is clearly visible to the tailbone area and side protection for the outer parts of the legs. The price is expensive, but will be one of my next purchase, as I believe that I have these parts at high risk.
riders
Well, as I said, if you get all this, you're going to look like Robocop or a Star Wars stormtrooper, at least, hehe. Although none of the protections is discussed more in all if you do fall, even in conditions not very aggressive. You never know where it may be this fall that may ruin many things. No ash or negative to be in the DH and be always thinking you're going to hit, you have to throw something of value, and often is the fear that our capabilities so that limits us. But the reality is that the fall is secured at one time or another, the end of the call for something dangerous sport. But improving your technique, knowing your limits and taking the appropriate protections, falls are few, usually mild or very mild and thanks to your protection will not in any bruise, sprain, etc, nothing that a few ibuprofen and a few days of rest can not fix.
Enjoy the fall, but surely and head, and as I always say, these are protections, no jacket. And before a really important shot, you're not sure against anything. As carefully and know your limits, if you think this cut is not made for you at this time why do you bound? In my opinion it is better to go home with doubt with a leg or broken vertebra and improve your technique until you can safely jump.
One last final recommendation is that before buying any type of protection you investigate and ask questions in forums and read product descriptions thoroughly to see if it fits what you want . On the other hand, in this the issue of size is crucial, if you buy something big will fall or move and therefore will adequately protect, and if you squeeze small purchases, subtract mobility and prevent you from pedaling or move with ease on the bike, which can also be a cause of decline, or at least discomfort manifest.
I found this video by chance thanks to the blog of Electro, the truth is that I have been impressed by the technique of these types. It is very interesting, and mountains for both of them go alone.
Well, we have seen elbow and knee protectors and gloves, in this chapter we will see the issue of helmets, perhaps he should be first, but anyway, I tell you now. For next we will see less common and protections apply only already declining, as are the bibs, torso and leg guards and neck guards.
Needless to say, the helmet is not an option, the helmet is essential, it's like a seat belt car. Depending on usage you have to give your bike, but in this article assume that the use you give is more aggressive than normal, you should choose a type of helmet or another.
Overall we can say that there are three types of helmets, namely, open, hybrid and comprehensive.
Typically the open helmet is the typical bike helmet we see and we all usually have to say that a helmet is only valid for route and in calm conditions, or not very aggressive. It is not recommended to go to "fly" or jumping with open helmet, because the chances of you bust his face in a fall are high.
Another point to consider is that between the hulls open two types, road and mountain, both are very similar, but the road is slightly lighter and with slightly less protection in the nape depending on brands. So my advice is to always buy a helmet specifically for mountain bike and not get carried away by the light or ventilation.
So you know, enfúndate a helmet, even one of 20 euros, there is no excuse. In my case I use two types of helmets, I have one for winter and one summer. Winter really is a BMX helmet, which protects more than ever, the problem is that air worse, but in winter this is something I do not care much besides me a little better protect ears and neck against the cold. Although this is not, is identical in shape. You can buy it in Decathlon for 15 euros.
BMX
Although you can use mountain bike perfectly, it is more robust and more protective, so no problems, since any extra protection is not over.
In summer this type of helmet is already unbearable, and more in black, so I open a standard MTB. Decathlon also. is Btwin Sport 7. An outstanding helmet, very light, highly ventilated and extremely comfortable, the price is more expensive however, costs 45 euros,
The truth is that there is a large gap between the helmet and Rueter downhill or freeride, and there is nothing or almost nothing in between, it is difficult to find and what little there is expensive. Enduro practitioners have a hard time, there are few options to choose from to make the "goat" and ensure the face in case of serious fall. Currently what we find in the market are the models "Met Parachute" and "Viper MX." These helmets can put on and remove the "chin" or front, look like this.
see, these helmets are at the top similar to those above, but protect the face, in case you had an impact front against something. The problem with this headset is its scarcity and price, they are around 150 euros each. Therefore not an option for everyone. On the other hand do not offer complete protection as a helmet, so you are always in question. However, in my opinion are a great choice if you practice trialeras enduro or strong. You can put up without the chin, and when you go down it is placed. Interestingly, although its appearance is a bit of Star Wars.
The last type of helmet that we will discuss is the helmet. So far we have helmets that are "multipurpose" so to speak, the route can take, in summer, winter, etc, but when you go down there is no option, you can not use a hybrid, let alone a helmet open, you have to wear a helmet. These helmets are just lightweight versions and more airy than motocross helmets. Fully protect the head and eyes are exposed only to small rocks, dirt, sand, etc, so it is highly recommended complemented by good eye protection. Its appearance is this, I put mine with which I am very happy. Also I got offer of 32 euros, a real bargain for the mark 661, is the model Strike of 2008.
As you can see this is not very suitable for a Sunday best output. These helmets have serious ventilation problems and reduce a bit of hearing, also if you have not ever used require some adaptation, since somewhat reduced field of vision when used in combination with protective goggles and somewhat reduce the mobility of the head, so you feel strange when you start using, driving change much on the bike at first until you get used to is something that must be taken into account. However, the only option to take the head completely protected if they fall into a decline, no more, if you want to practice downhill or freeride usually have to wear a helmet.
The issue of size is more than critical, it should be tested but these helmets and make a quiet exit test to see how it go, you can not buy it and go to a landing directly there are always little adjustments to make until we have a perfect town, also depending on the type of head you have, some brands may go better than others.
I recommend you probeis it home before leaving for a while and you will see if you press somewhere, turn a little neck to see if you can slash the hitch and adjust accordingly, etc. It seems silly that it is not, at times testing helmets in the store and are perfect, but after wearing them 20 minutes, whatever, you press a vein or similar and you have a headache, or ears etc. Therefore very important to buy the right size. That if the later that you could wear at home going to look like a "retarded" as happened to me, who was with the pajamas and the helmet.
These helmets are a wide range of models and prices, usually find a helmet for a decent brand from the 60 or 70 euros, can find up to 500 euros. My recommendation is 661, you of all types, prices and colors and you're the most you have to buy the brand POC.
A point to note is that there are motocross helmets that are almost exactly the same, but not tempted to buy unless you do desecensos at the North Pole or in areas with lots of very cold, simply because if poorly ventilated specific bike, then imagine a motorcycle.
Another important issue in this hull is combined with appropriate protective eyewear. More than anything because normally the downhill circuits are full of gravel, stones and dust, so that you can go ahead of you "spit" a good rock or dust easily. The theme of the glasses has two problems, the first is that fog and the second is that the thing gets more complicated if you turn you use glasses to see, as I do.
glasses I use are these Oakley, which are designed to be worn under glasses to see the truth is going very well. Oakley Proven OTG are the MX, just take a little more room on the side (small openings) so you can put the pins on the spectacles in comfort, you can see in the picture. They are somewhat expensive, 36 euros (almost more than the hull) but in my case I can not do without the glasses because I hate contact lenses.
The issue of condensation on the inside of these glasses is very complicated when you take your glasses to see and when they start the heat and sweat, I tried almost everything , liquid fog, I tried two types of glasses and more, but ultimately the best option is to take away the little web that lead at the top allowing air to circulate, I did and have not returned to fog.
Well peers. I hope these of advice based on my personal experience I find them useful.
III very nearly the end of the Santa Cruz de La Vuelta VPFree
Hi buddies!
Well I finally finished assembling the Santa Cruz VP Free!
Here are a photic:)
Phew, what it cost me to leave this fine bike, especially at the level of transmission.
Here it is the "bike-check"
Box 2008 Santa Cruz VP Free in size M
Address Cancreek XXL
reducer to 1-1/8
FOX DHX 5 Coil Shock 2008
Rock Shox Boxxer Team Fork 2010
full Shimano Saint group (except for front plates)
covers Blackspire chain guide plates and
Dewlite
Blackspire Super Pro Inner plates 26 and 36
Blackspire Nuvi
Hayes Stroker Trail brakes with discs 203
Power Kore
Husselfet Handlebar Truvativ DH
Crank Brothers Joplin Seatpost
4
Pedals Crank Brothers Mallet January 2010
Tire Equalizer Sunringle
Nuke Proof Generator hubs front and rear.
Covers Navégalo Kenda 2.5
The truth is that the bike is a little "freaky", so let me tell you some things to keep in mind if you ride you a "free" these caracterísitcas, if this bike can be considered free only because in my opinion might be true for almost about everything.
The first thing to consider, and I I did not, is that the BB is high, the reason is obvious, the rear travel of the VP is 215 mm, so that any jump or bumpy area or large stones, the chances of crashing are high, since The rear swingarm is going to go far, so everything can be higher than the BB, then all the better. But this raises a serious drawback if you intend to use two dishes, and especially if one is small, like me, is that the switch is going to lift the chain that small dish, literally, when the bike is at rest, if you know this, mosqueo that you'll get is important.
When I started riding This made the bike left me crazy, almost upset, I even think that was bad soldier, but thanks to Marc Stefani, the guy who welded, everything was ok. Here it is a photo of Marc, type majete, hehe, these are Santa Cruz cane, I included with each painting a caricature of the welder who "created" the box. Although this was well until 2008, unfortunately, the pictures of Santa Cruz are no longer "Made in USA" as he puts in the back seat tube, but "Made in Taiwan", in which we fn to do .. Marc
champion! Thank you very much for doing such fine work, the picture is perfect. Congratulations! For soldier you see that it is the box, you can see in the picture after the Marc, the penetration of the weld on the inside of the pipe towards the top tube weld. It is something that is rarely seen. According to my friend Wolf, it seems that is not MIG and TIG; although I leave these issues on an expert welder, I have no idea of \u200b\u200btungsten:) Finally you can see the photo with the ok of "Inspector Bike" by Santa Cruz.
In my obfuscation on the subject of the chain and derailleur could confrmar the picture is well investigated in several sites. And what happens is that when you get on the bike, or ride small sprocket, the very height of SAG makes the switch down a bit and there is no lifting chain. This does not happen if you carry only medium bowl or large plate or dish medium and large plate, something the latter, it would be quite absurd in a bike like this.
Moreover, this, though it is inconvenient to mount a standard change is a big advantage for jumps and other aggressive practices for there is much more distance between the chain and the lower sleeve, so that fewer shots to the table. On the other hand, as I said, the ride height prevents shocks.
I put a picture to see him clear and you will understand much better the issue up the chain as the chain when at rest and enlarged, in small bowl. You can also see how to go as high bottom bracket, the chain guide chain tension just resting in small dish, this also let me fly until I discovered that only happens in the rest position.
If you look, the chain is fully diagonal to the axis of the pedals, a clear difference of a normal bike. I think now you will understand better what I mean. This circumstance forced me to choose a small plate with some teeth more than the typical 22, in this case a 26, might seem to many teeth to a small dish, but consider that the small plate on this bike is just to help you up, not for use as bike uphill, because the goal is clearly lower, or routing marginally. Therefore, with 24 or 26 case solved. In medium bowl took 36, more than enough to lose as much for plain if need be.
I decided to keep a tape of 11-34, being a bike that I use for everything except to climb Calvary clear ...
Leaving aside this issue, the other components are normal in their assembly, with the exception of the fork, which like all double decks has its little things that mount up correctly. The address is a 1 / 5 with reducing to 1-1/8 as the fork is a Boxxer Team 2010 in this measure
I was surprised by the Saint group, the changes are simply spectacular, very very soft well .. like almost everything Shimano truth.
Boxxer fork came standard with the red spring (medium hardness) and try to change to yellow, which is hard, luckily I did not, and that, not sure if it because it is new, the fork is very hard.
Anyway, I'm missing some finishing touches such as adjusting the damper, shortening a brake hose and put some guards that do not rub the brake and shift cables. But otherwise is complete at 99%.
Hope you like it and we see by the Pyrenees bikeparks next year. Because I think spending a month with my Santa Cruz !
Well, I'm back from vacation, dammit, I arrived from France a little burst of both car but it was worth, look I pateao and seen things, but the foie and the line (the eating Do not think wrong) haha, I have a few pounds more, so tomorrow pedaling
Well, I leave my chronic Molina, simply brutal, fuck, that's a bike park, not Cagarro the Pinilla we have here in Madrid, but hey, that's another topic ...
I spent a whole day down, I ended up exhausted but I stepped on the floor not once, was important because it continued to travel to France the next day.
The green track is simply amazing, I really liked the blue too, although it was somewhat broken, and the lower red was seen as the subject, and it was like I imagined, for the insane, so I spent down through the green like a madman, hell, you cannot, it bends, the track is simply perfect average I've seen, you can spend an hour down if you take it easy, or you can enjoy as a dwarf.
I recommend it without doubt, we were in the HG, is very well located, 5 minutes walk from the lift in front you have a bike rental shop with prices nice, you can rent a DH Cove for two full days 120 euros, and also Kona Stab you in the station, a little more expensive, and more crushed the truth, but the fact is that we were wrong, have lots and lots of size, we must also take into account that the price of the bike protections are included, although I had mine and not caught.
Here I leave a fotillo before one of the climbs, as I was with the girlfriend I had to get one and I have no photo in action the truth is that we were very lucky with the weather and had very few people, so you could lose your rhythm completely.
A FLIP truth, and very nice people, next year I'm going there, but this time with my Santa Cruz!
For if peers, which for me was so far the best bike shop and parts of the world, literally, is plummeting at least with me I assure you that I spend a fortune with them. So imagine with less powerful clients
Besides no longer send you special promotions except those craps discounts on things that are worthless, and increasingly the more crap the product description and what you arrive, you are becoming a bike trail but
moved here my last
-Table Proceed FST PRO 850 euros, you are wrong and send me an FST TRAIL, to return to the fucking box a post office, which by 3 mm I can barely send because the limit is 105.
Horqulla Rock Shox Lyrik-170, extra unsprung without preload spacers. I send an email to tell you that Rock Shox has told me that the jetties have to give and to chain me to say anything, so the fork and
point
-Another Marzochi 22 LO I ask 120 and send me the 100, again with the fucking mail box. Interestingly
all the mistakes have been in their favor and never have sent me something more valuable than it had requested, in order.
Finally, until recently everything was ok in chain, but I get that the crisis is giving hard and gitaneo are being passed on to customers. For my part I do not buy more unless the item is just what they have.
I switched to mountain bikers and much better, less stock but cheaper and if you say it is a Rock Shox Boxxer send you a Rock Shox Boxxer in its original box with all the extras, and both times I've had problems has been to send an email and send without thinking what was missing, besides being much faster, lately in chainreaction orders are taking up to two to three weeks once the package is big, what I find totally unacceptable.
For my part the Chain have lost a customer and can give a lot for the jepe. And I say it one that you have reached make custom discount of 20% for the mere fact of being a good customer, but that was in the past, now the issue is more cumbersome and unable to offer a discount after a shit in products of 700, 800 and up to 1000 euros.
to buy some hoses, fine, but for something more expensive for me these are gone
Chainreactioncycles How to choose a good protections? - II
compis Hello again!
Well, we will further analyze this a bit of protection. I have been reviewing the point I and I realized that I made a fatal error! and we have not talked about the gloves, and these are an essential part of protection, it is what primerito going to kiss the ground.
When you implement more aggressive MTB, no doubt it, you have to leave the gloves that let their fingers in the air, is sencillamene suicide. Although it is summer, you have to wear full gloves. In the world of gloves are the same "frikadas" in terms of fibers and composites in the rest of protections, so the price range is again very broad. However, it is easy to find something pretty decent at a reasonable price. Normally
for my departure "enduro" I use long gloves sold at Decathlon , are these that you see in the picture below.
you going to be a curious brown in summer, but for the price they have, about 10 euros, are the very best to use a bit more intensive than normal, you see he has small rubber protection on the of the fingers and the inside of the hand are padded and avoid scrapes basntante important, personally I like the feel they give and are very comfortable.
When we look even more protection for the hands because we practice drop, freeride, or some form risky these gloves are worth and there are no reinforcements to search hard or harder. In the same Decathlon can find some a little more advanced, but my opinion should carry more protection in the palm of your hand, but rather the protects the knuckles and carrying a rigid protection but with the shape of the hand on that part.
If you're looking for even more protection for your hands, you should seek specific versions of protective gloves, as the model of 661 Evo Glove, which again uses D30 compound to give maximum strength. Personally I find amazing. However you have also made similar models marks but in Kevlar fibers are highly resistant, etc. As always, better but more expensive ... It's the way life is!
As it is now summer has come bikeparks season, a lot of output, many drop, many trails and ultimately, many host ... well I'll try to summarize how to choose the appropriate safeguards can and should go.
first thing I have to say is that I am no doctor or physical therapist or orthopedic surgeon, or physical, nor do I work at a bike crash tests (well, sometimes yes, but with myself) so I'll just tell you that I use and how I choose. Remember therefore you should inform the manufacturer before the protections you buy to see if they comply or not to final use you give them.
first thing I will say is that like most things in the MTB, it has evolved dramatically in recent years and now find materials in the protections that we could not imagine 15 years ago. As can be, smart fibers and composites, kevlar, carbon, etc, etc.
The reality is that you consider using more advanced protection (besides the helmet, because this is what you should always have and I assume it's there) when you start to use more raw in your bike, especially in the field, or when you start make routes with hills or areas "broken" than normal which may provoke falls. And in any case, if you want them to always use whatever you do, then all the better.
first thing to know is that the protections are just that, protections, but no lifeguards, the wearing kneepads, elbow pads and a helmet is not going to fight to break your leg or arm if beat is important, As always careful and analyze where your limits. However, it is usual to have fallen "soft" or "semi-soft" when we practice in a technical area as a trial bike, semi-descent, or just in areas where control of the bike is more difficult than normal.
For such situations it is practical or desirable to protect knees and elbows at least as they are the most prone to scratches, scrapes, bruises, cuts, etc, since they are often areas that receive the first impact .
For this first case are interesting soft protections as those sold 661 and other brands, but as the brand I normally use because I use their products.
Here you can see a photo of the knee protection. Veggie model is a simple version that will give us some protection against these falls soft. These protections will avoid those little scrapes and bumps, will not prevent you pop your leg if you fall over a cliff, but at least in that "soft landing" will crush the skin of the knee or elbow as little as possible. The protection system that uses are overlapping layers of neoprene. 661
You have an addition that it does is protect the entire shin knee addition
And here
elbow
As you can imagine, these protections, and almost all have a problem, and ventilation, be prepared to sweat, especially in summer. The nice thing is that they wash very well and that you carry in your backpack to the bike and can be folded and weigh less. Thus, when see that it gets ugly, because you lose the holsters and more protected, but remember, they are soft protection.
Well, this should be sufficient for basic protection. But it may happen that you start doing a little more raw than usual, or just in your area the roads are more complicated and more prone to falls, finally, begins to be more risk and soft fall is already secured almost every ride and increase your chances of having a fall more complicated and therefore require more protection, but remember, only is that, more protection, are not infallible.
At this point you begin to consider using protection not so soft, and here you have two options, or buy protection rigid or soft materials that become rigid when they absorb a shock. This type of materials are eg D30 661, here you can see on video how it works, it's really interesting, because you can wear a soft protective (ie, more comfortable than a rigid) but it hardens when dropped and it protects more that layers of neoprene.
look at this video and you'll understand perfectly and is very interesting, the problem is that like everything .. gains a lot of money.
661 models that use D30 Evo models are
The most common option attained a level of risk usually high enough to buy yet rigid protections normally manufactured using hard plastics or similar materials. 661 also produced naturally, and are more frequently used when looking for complete protection, but here and sacrifice enough comfort and flexibility, so its use is becoming more exclusive descent, although it is common also use extreme enduro riders who practice or freeride. It looks like next to one arm, you see also covers the forearm. Protections are quite extreme and obviously not intended for use "Sunday" quiet. You have similar versions for knee and shin.
Well, so far the first part of the most basic protections and not so basic that you can and should be used if are doing a more aggressive use and level of risk to your own XC bike or walk. As you see you have soft protection that you can use on a regular basis you will avoid small bruises, scratches and injuries from falls slightly.
In the next chapter we'll get to back and neck protection, as well as with dungarees and protection of those parts nobles. There will be a special chapter for helmets, because they are also emerging intermediate models between the standard and comprehensive center that require a bit more detailed study.
And speaking of helmets, remember, take it always, but always, in the head. You can make it very original and decorative in your box, but which is better is placed on your Seseras also by the prices at which you can buy today have no excuse.
