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How to change the fork of the bike

Hello bikers!

turns out that I changed my suspension fork and how often a recurring question, I mean the issue of how to change the fork, I decided to do a little article with some pictures of the process, maybe not the best method, but I hope you like what you can to do at home with a small desk and few tools.

One thing you have to be clear before buying a new fork is compatible with the measurements of your bike, especially with what is called the "pipe" of management, mountain bike almost everything is 1-1/8 now, but is also increasingly 1-1/5 far, it is assumed that in the future (in about four or five years) all will be 1-1/5, but we'll see. Residually are some bikes with measure 1. The fork you buy has to have the same measure, remember.

The bike in question is a Decathlon 9.1 with a Rock Shox Tora 302 Solo Air 120 mm of travel, the bike itself is fine, but I have changed the fork for a Manitou Drake Super Air 130 mm, there is simply no color in sensitivity .

The first thing you get is a photo with the tools I used, you see all you can buy at any hardware store and plain little bike shop. The only specific thing I've used is a pusher of spiders brand X-Tools, it's cheap, it cost me 13 euros, although I suppose there are ways to put the spider home is something you do not like to make that gamble and prefer to use a particular tool as goals as evil, liaste.

A little tool that I have not put in the picture, because I forgot, is the "implement" to put the track of the direction, management used a cup and a rubber washer not make a track, then you will see in more detail. The track of the direction for not knowing is the red ring you see above left. In the upper right is the pusher of spiders and the cutter, the other things are some files to remove the overflow tube, the spider itself, some carbon spacers, some fat and support for the brake caliper, as the fork new support for the brake post mount and not SI.

And of course for the operation we need a new fork, which is this:

The only thing I have not done on this occasion the entire process is to remove the door from the direction of the front fork, simply because I got the entire address in decathlon by 13 euros, so I avoided me and I have problems bearing parts apart from being to go looking for clues to direction compatible. On the other hand I wanted to keep the original fork backup in case the new huiese failed. Here you can see the track itself, as I said is very important to you to buy an identical or cast them which is recessed in the fork going to replace it with a chisel or a flathead screwdriver and slowly taps.

Well, we started, you must first remove the original fork, little mystery, first remove the brake caliper to the fork, and we remove the screws, first of power and then the other until we left the address to view

As you can see this is a good time to make a clean direction, but always be very careful to remove it without forgetting the order in which they are reassembled, if we can not roll.

Here you can see a photo of the Rock Shox fork still lower bearing and the track of the original address with the new, as you see is identical.

Once we have removed the fork is the perfect time to take the exact measurement to cut the tube, you can do by simply measuring with a meter length front fork tube, or follows, much more simple but you sure you avoid mistakes. It's as simple as picking up and putting new fork on the bike with all the washers and power included, and when at the height you want (in my case I wanted a few millimeters high) make a Sue with a file and then the cut with the cutter.

However, it is an operation you have to do with much, much, care and attention, because as cuts more than they should, fork in the garbage, so simple, and everything bad cut a tube.

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important that you give a good filing to the top of the tube, both outside and inside so there are no burrs, also expands the cutter always a little metal, so there are probably a few tenths to lighten. Will cost you a while it's cutter, you have to go slowly around and squeeze a little, then another turn and so on until it is cut. You're gonna get to wrist and arm ..

next thing is to track the direction of our fork, and fat that give the base of the tube and the track management. In my case I used an "implement" home, which as I said is a bowl with a rubber washer, and soft but precise strokes, I've got until it is fully aligned with the base. Another trick is to buy a metal tube longer than the fork and place a protective rubber or plastic underneath and banging until it falls. I'm like I did because it is lighter

Finally it should be so completely parallel to the bridge of the bars not necessary to go with the hammer, when we see that it has reached the end, we give some final touches and ready.

We're almost done, now we only put the spider, for it as I've said tool used X-Tools, simply creating a system to hit straight on and the spider between deviant, it is important to go finding out what is entering the spider, when stuck for about 4 or 5 millimeters must be stopped . Before we begin a drop of oil into the tube to enter more easily, but very very little fat.

Well ... because now if we're done, we can only put fat, replace the bearings in place and mount the fork on the bike with power adjustments, brake calipers, cables and clamps, etc.

Remember it is very, very important to always stay two or three millimeters of space between steering tube and the top of the address should never be touched, you can see it in the fourth picture below.

Since we only see the final result!

Here is!

The good thing about this finish is that the fork really does almost 140 mm of travel and it is very difficult to make stops, if not impossible, because the bars are 150 mm in length visible, not travel, being a little longer than the Rock Shox obviously, this gives a stunning appearance and keeps almost the length of the front fork, so it does not change too much geometry.

Anyway handlebars up a little of course, and how well you I have some extra washer, so I cut the tube a little above as it had, I can now say that it is a luxury as lifting the front wheel so easily compared to the previous fork, there is no curb or obstacle that I resist. On the other hand gives me more control on downhills, so yes, I penalized a bit more climbing. The bike is getting a little more "enduro", but amazingly has dropped from 13.5 kilos to 12. The explanation is simple, $$$$$$$$, hehe.

The next change will be a Nuke Proof Generator hub in front and behind Da Bomb, which descend even more weight, but that for another day ...

Greetings and see you on the road!

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One of greases and lubricants III

Let's end the section with the oils. Saw how much oil you use on the bike is going to bring the transmission and maybe some lubrication of the bars of the shock absorbers and forks in small quantity.



So it happens that most manufacturers sell their products aimed at this part of the bike, some brands have special lubricants and even the bars of the suspensions, such as Finish Line, but this could be viewed as touching the "freak"

currently differentiation of oils is marked by his work at certain temperatures and density. Something similar happens with the fat, ie, humid and rainy climates you'll need something special oil or dense, but in general terms with any oil rather neutral bike will be enough. Manufacturers often distinguish between "Wet" for wet conditions and "Dry" for dry conditions, there is not much mystery, unless they put additives, usually Teflon mainly to give more durability to the parties metal.

Personally I really like that makes Decathlon, is cheap, hard enough and well lubricated, is neutral components and has a medium-low density, making it necessary to replace it with some regularity, especially if you mess much the bike and wash it often with the little hose from the gas station especially.

As you can see I am very prone to the use of lubricants as neutral as possible, with this I avoid possible damage to plastic parts, rubber, etc, which are also very important for the proper functioning of the bike

Let's see some transmission components and parts of the bike in which I highlight in green the areas which should take a "gothic" nothing more and then clean the excess with a rag. The string should give a quick clean with oil all the way with it.

Placing a little oil at these points we will make our work very smooth transmission. We can also put a drop of oil on the change and brake cables before putting them in the sleeves to finish the work. Other parts where it would be interesting to take a drop in spots that tilting on the bike, mainly on the swing arm pivot points back.

Finally remind you that we should not exceed the amount of oil, because when all is said and done we will use it on the outside of the bike and like all lubricant act as a magnet for filth, resulting in the opposite effect that we causing more friction and thus wear.

Greetings and see you on the road!

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One of greases and lubricants II

Let's start fats.

Within the world of fat we are moving in a range in which there are multiple values \u200b\u200bas a function of density and additives are fat. I especially love the brand "Rock N Roll" is an American brand that has four types of fat that cover virtually all parts of the bike, look at them.

Red Devil

Red Devil is a general purpose grease, you can use anywhere on the bike, is low density and single drawback is that not too thick tends to go with the "washed", and for example if you use the seat post (element that is often removed and replaced often) end up leaving. But if you go for a normal use to the bike and you bothered to check and replace the fat you can use it from time to time without problems. It is rather neutral, so it performs well with all materials and shall not affect the plastics, rubber, etc.

is curious that almost all commonly used fats are red. Not because it is.

Super coat

Super Coat is a special grease for the swing arm pivot points and suspensions, and also can be used in those parts where there may be a penetration of water in the washes and the seatpost or who are more exposed , for example between the power and the area where the handle is screwed. As you can see is a grease designed for a more intensive use of the bike or in conditions of very heavy rain or moisture, density is medium.

Super Slick

Como su propio nombre indica Super Slick es una grasa muy densa y no se moverá de donde la pongas en mucho tiempo, esta es su principal ventaja, su desventaja es que misteriosamente atraerá la mugre en casi todos y cada uno de los recovecos en donde la pongas, esto tiene su lado malo y es que las pequeñas partículas de arena y polvo acabarán mezclandose con la grasa pudiendo producir un efecto lija en zonas como el eje del pedalier o puntos de pivote, por lo que no es recomendable que la uses en climas muy muy secos.

Por otra parte las grasas muy densas por lo general pueden provocar un cierto "embotamiento" en algunas ocasiones, por ello not recommend that you use to lubricate the inside covers of change. It is more advisable to use it in areas you want to protect from oxidation or moisture and less to areas that might get to catch dirt or likely to be more in contact with the outside contamination.

Web Super

This grease is specially designed for bearings, it's like chewing gum, stick to consciousness, and for those parts internal friction are subject to a lot or require lubrication and permanent protection is highly recommended. Personally I like a lot, along with the Red Devil is the most specific use to lubricate parts that tend to lose fat or degrade easily, usually use it to leave a film set in the seatpost, the thru-axle front of my Spicy and steering bearings. The only drawback from my point of view is that it costs to clean and dispose of where you post.



In summary must be clear that as a general rule for the parties to grease and oils for internal and external, that said so a little to gross, but very close to reality. Can be definitely used one type of fat for the whole bike except for certain internal components of the suspensions, you may also need specific fats if you use extreme or are in areas with very high temperatures or humidity. But know that the fats we discussed here are pretty neutral, but that certain fats are additives such as Teflon or Lithium, which although very effective for lubricating metal parts, can damage plastic or rubber parts with continued use, especially lithium, so before applying grease additives get the facts on which damages these materials can do, my advice is to always use fat rather neutral to avoid problems.

The next chapter will talk about the oils.

Greetings and see you on the road!

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One of greases and lubricants I

Hello bikers!

Here we are with another section of Ejepasante and mechanics, this time it's going to lubricants, greases, oils, etc. In this first installment we will see which areas need to grease or lubricate and second types of lubricants used in mountain biking.

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therefore give some of advice for almost any type of mountain biking with the exception of carbon, which inevitably have to use very neutral fat or specific for this material, I will review the file a little later, we now focus on those bikes are metallic (mostly) and is today the most widely used aluminum material with steel, but keep in mind that the bike also has a lot of plastic components.

We will try to make a simple classification to do the first thing to be clear is that the bike has two types of components lubricate clearly differentiated: the moving parts or friction, and are not subject to movement or friction, both need the fat, then we'll see why. Within each of these groups in turn we find two types of parts, or rather with the location of them, which can be classified as internal and external parties, as a general rule we use always grease and oil the internal parts or fat, depending on which component to external parties.

On the other hand many times when grease or lubricate the bike we are in doubt about what kind of fat put in each site, the truth is that this has also changed considerably and lubricants found today specific for nearly every bolt of the bicycle, see that it is an exaggeration and that only one type of fat and oil only we will be more than enough and why.

The use of fat has a double meaning, first to avoid burnout, and the second is to prevent oxidation of components, it prevents moisture and air to penetrate the metals producing its so dreaded. The amount of grease to apply to be fair, we should not overdo it or falling short, and tries to cover part of a film of fat or less fat, we need not take half the pot.

internals main oil that you would get red in the Decathlon 9.1 to as an example. As you can see it inside the seat tube, the bottom bracket, full address including the power to where it screws with the handle, the threads which engage the pedals and tilt axes that allow the rear shock and you may also is necessary to grease the rollers inside the hubs. Happens to access some parts that you get is complicated and requires skill, but if we ever grease the bike in full, this is what we must not overlook ever.

There is one exception to this rule, which generally tends to be the core of the cassette, at that point and to avoid dulling will use a thin oil, even motor. For utlimo say that some people have a habit of putting a thin film of grease on the brake and shift cables to make it smoother movement and prevent friction.

Now let's see green where you have to use oil, and we said that we will use only oil on the outside of the bike as a general rule. I put the same bike but green highlighted areas that require oil as you can see almost everything is focused on the transmission and chain. We should not overdo it with too much junk oil or catch them, a small "bath" along the entire chain along with a few drops onto plates and gears, as well as in those joints pequelas diverters will be more than enough. Never use grease on the chain, you will not do more to attract scab and filth.

You will have seen that I also put in green bars and suspension fork damper rod, many tell me that this not be done, but in my experience is desirable to avoid cracking of the seals and the friction of the rods to prevent these work in dry dust and small foreign particles, that if, in this area needed just two or three drops per bar and a pair of compression to be distributed well. I recommend you do this after every cleaning you do to the bike.

One last tip, as you may have noticed we have not put any oil or grease on the brake disc areas, this is so for two reasons The first is that if you do not slow down, and the second is that if you pollute the brake pads with oil or grease, you can not reuse cleaning them because they are very porous and allow great penetration of oil or grease. So keep well away from the disc brakes all that fats and oils are

Finally say that we highly recommend placing a drop of fat in those areas that have bolts or suspicions that may rust or have tendency to do, but always remember that outside parties exposed to air or not to be fat and not to overdo it with oil.

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What bike should I buy? VII

Hello Bikers!

We are here to finish the classification of the MTB, good good, we still see the side gore! of mountain biking, is what is called the DH or down to dry. The truth is that its very name indicates that this is going, it is quite simply down by complex and risky areas, and wins it takes less time, that simple, direct and radical.

In this discipline used bikes have only one purpose, and are as far from the versatility you can think of, just a downhill bike it exclusively for download and most are not worth to roll, are the closest thing to a motorcycle, in fact there are those who define as "non-motorized bikes" and it is very foolish to say this

their geometries are very aggressive in lowering, trasalada whole weight as much as possible to the rear, as is so foreign to what we are accustomed. Its weight can reach 20 kilos and sometimes even better depending on the components, have no small dish, and sometimes only have a single plate and thus ignores the shift lever left

Suspensions around 200 millimeters in front and behind, and already beginning to see some slightly exceeding the 200 mm. The pictures are heavily reinforced and the use of the saddle is almost anecdotal, these bikes are mainly seeks suspension travel, handling balance and tend to be "short" and used tires that can reach up to 2.7, and you must remember that in XC is a common measure 1.9.

In short, are what we call a cucumber ", conceived and designed to go down like a bullet, jump all that is ahead and jumps very powerful reception" beasts. "

With these bikes ride without the aid of potential energy provided by the slope of descent is very difficult, the pedals are only good to earn some extra boost to go down or the bike from the portal your house to the car to save or take from your car to the lift that will help you climb to the top from which to start descent.

Almost all the leading brands have bikes down, let's see some models to discuss their peculiarities

Lapierre DH

As you can see this bike is "any suspension," carries a dual crown fork forward (almost bike) and a coil shock behind (also virtually bike), the driving position is fully backward and the seat is low, this is so that the bike allows you to delay your position still farther back in those drops of death.

Another interesting aspect is the use of a "chain guides (the white part next to the large plate) that prevents the chain from coming off the dishes in a jump or landing. The brakes are the most pontente range and the handle is wide and very high to give more control. The power that holds the handlebar is virtually nonexistent.

The tires measure 2.5 with a large ball and is extremely soft, used to spend on the hard ground quickly and are designed to provide grip and traction maximum. Its weight is 18 kilos with pedals, which, believe me, there is little for a bike of this nature, being the more normal, around 19 or 20. It happens that manufacturers increasingly better over the components and goes down a little weight, and this takes the cake Lapierre lately.

As you can see, this bike is no ambiguity, "that" only intended only to go down.

Another interesting model is the Trek Session , another pure and simple DH

In this photo you can appreciate a dual crown fork, the guide channels and the tremendous swing fully back in their sheaths and reinforced straps to resist the landings, the front fork over 200 millimeters of travel, namely 203, and believe me, those 3 millimeters a professional DH racer can take one to notice.

This type of bike require a more complex mechanical adjustments and a very fine tweaking, in addition to their suspensions offer all kinds of regulations it to suit the end of the corridor bike for the type of use and race to be carried out.

goes without saying that your price is the most expensive of all the arrangements we've seen. Bicycles of these features with prices starting from € 3000 onwards. To this must be added the cost of the equipment of the corridor, it would be crazy out here with the "Cullot" and XC helmet 20 euros, it really needed protections on the elbows, knees and shins, as well as resistant clothing and a helmet, otherwise when you have the fall (and have) the least that can happen is that you open the head.

Finally, there is no better way to understand the use that is given to a downhill bike to do some videos. In the last video you can see a combination of freeride to downhill, because lately it is fashionable to jump, but remember that the decline is that, down, down very fast, and not just jump, this is something that ultimately people also begins to confuse, a particular jump can be practiced over and over again, no matter how hard it is, but down one-hour firewall in the middle of the mountain, down the whole milk in which you vibrate to the neurons and suspensions look set to explode in the next boat or cut, no.

Enjoy the videos, no waste ..

And with that I leave in its classification of the types Ejepasante mountain bike you can buy today, I hope these articles will have served to hit more on your purchase, especially if you're starting on the fascinating Mountain Bike world. It important to understand that each bike is designed, because the price of the bike is not cheap nowadays with so much technology.

A hug for all those who I love about this sport and have seen the true essence.