If Your Married Should You Claim Zero

assembly 316 full suspension bike from scratch. BRAND-X Table FS-1

Hello bikers!

in this post I show you my latest creation, a bike is assembled from scratch with a Brand-X box that I bought in FS1 ChainReaction , I bought it in size L and in that time it cost 330 euros, taking into account that the shock comes standard and is a Rock Shox Ario 2.1, the truth is that it was a bargain.

First I have to say about the picture is that the finish of it is exceptional. The welds are very fine and well finished, in addition to the painting is exceptional. I was surprised to get it out of the box as the tubes seems much thinner in the photo, once you have on hand can appreciate the really big down tube, giving an important aspect of robustness.

The rear swingarm features asymmetrical pods, which is a data quality as it provides a lot of rigidity to the assembly and one thing that struck me is that the swing arm pivot points use sealed ball bearings, plus the shock is anchored to the table using style gear TF Tuned Shox , in fact I think they are of this brand, because the appearance is the same and to my knowledge only makes this brand.

Another interesting aspect is that by varying the damper position, changing it to anchor The different holes that brings the links, we can change the rear travel of 95 mm to 110 mm, allowing us to use different pins to change front, in my case I had a Rock Shox Tora 120 mm from a Decathlon 9.1, so the bike is very balanced. The manufacturer says you can get 120 mm of rear wheel travel, but putting the shock in the extended position've only got 110, so that no centimeter know where it goes, maybe I have to try another combination of anchor.

Another thing that surprised me is how they have been able to get the 110 mm of travel with a cushion of 165x38 mm of travel, is simply incredible, but it is. It is an air shock with preload and rebound control, simple but efficient, and very progressive, rebound control has 30 clicks, so you can adjust a lot to your personal taste, never used Rock Shox rear, and truth is that I loved.

exceptional in all a box at a great price, the only aspect that we could criticism is that the tubes are hydroformed and are cylinders classics, but I think more can not be ordered. And considering that in size L and cushion the weight is less than 3 kilos.

The stickers that you see they are put to cheer a little, because the picture is completely pelao, without any sticker or drawing.

I put some pictures of the final assembly and detail you something.

Wheels Decathlon, from a 9.1

Deca Covers WTB Prowler 2.3

Handlebar, Decathlon power

Free Ride Saddle Selle Italia

Kalloy seatpost SRAM Attack shifters

Grip Shift Front and rear derailleur Shimano SLX chain

Bottom Bracket Sram

, plates, rods and cassette, Shimano Deore

Hayes Stroker Ryde brakes

discs of 160

Quick locks wheel and seat of the Decathlon

Fork Rock Shox Tora 302 Solo Air 120 mm

Rock Air Cushion 163x38

Shox Ario 2.1

Address semi-integrated FSA Orbit

Cables

Shimano Deore

lock-grip cuffs

Lizzard Skins Pedals Crank Brothers Eggbeater

I have not weighed yet, but I think it should be around 14 kilos, I put it shortly. I can tell you that the bike is comfortable, very comfortable, which does not have any slack in tilting steering, wheels, etc. The only downside that I can make is that the brake cable that goes under the top tube is not securely attached and had to use a plastic anchor extension to be standing still, but this is a minor detail that is solved with 4 euros or a bridita, it is also true that I have left some cable.

All the pieces that I have already had them, except the address, handlebars, power, seat post and seat closure. The "I screwed up" with the central deflector, because the picture is not well appreciated but used to clamp down on the day I set out to assemble whole I stood at that point, aghhhh, too bad I sat, so I had to buy one, I put a SLX, otherwise the assembly is very simple and uses the bike completely standard measures to address bottom bracket, seatpost, etc.

the moment I have mounted as covered in 2.3 and will However, although he is not can put a lot more, but I think 2.3 for a bike that is closer to the Trail XC or something else is more than enough and I even left over, what happens is that I like fat covered.

short, a very interesting buy if you're considering a double comfortable ride you on your own tourer. My girlfriend has made tester and liked so much that I said that this bike it is! I fucked up, but well, so I have an excuse to mount another, haha \u200b\u200b

bikers Greetings and see you on the road!

Counter Letter Of Insu

replacement for plain bearings

Hello bikers

turns out the other day, and as I commented in the post measures of shock, I could not reuse the gear of my X-Fusion O2 in a Decathlon 9.1. Anyway, I struggled to find reducing buffer at a reasonable price, everything was out of Spain was in my size (24x8) and the price with shipping I was more than 30 euros in most Sometimes it seems just a scam by four pieces of aluminum.

think about it I said "this can not be so hard" has to be something that can be done at a reasonable price. I came concluded that with a bearing and a washer was possible to get a better and even cheaper.

we detail the process with some pictures he understands best:)

first thing I had to take into account were the measures of the eyelet of the shock, and that was to replace all, in this case FOX be an internal measure of eyelets is 15mm measured with analog gauge, we must say that really the measure is 15 mm, are almost 15, but missing a few tenths, it suspuso me a problem because the bearing was not bought pressure to come to this I had to make a small aluminum chapita (in this case a can of Red Bull which is the finest I found) to pressing the bearing and not fall.

Needless to say, the first thing to do is remove our buffer "old" before starting the process.

What I get then is like taking all necessary measures, taking into account the total width, the diameter of bolts and the inner diameter of the new buffer.

First we need to know the total width to buy back the washers necessary in this case is 24 mm, for it is as reliable as measuring the width currently in your shock mounts

Then measure the diameter of the shaft-screw that holds the cushion to the frame, in this case 8 mm

And finally measured inside the new shock (Fox RP2), gives 15 mm

Well, at this point emepezó my paranoia on how to assemble the invention, my conclusion was that I needed something sturdy allowing for a better performance than plain damn, I conclude was that the best possible design would consist of a needle bearing on the shaft-screw is supported, so I needed some external diameter 15mm internal diameter and 8, any decent brand of bearings you have found some bearings INA needle for 8 euros each, very good, measuring 8 mm internal diameter, 15 mm outer diameter and 16 mm wide, so I was missing 4 millimeters on each side to "fill", this I did with two spacers INA of 2.75 plus a ring of 2 mm, this gives 0.75 mm wide, but we must bear in mind that we are interested in the ring have some pressure for us to seal the set. 0.75 These are calculated to eye, but so far have been successful, and in any case if some ring die for change, period, because the costs are ridiculous, 2 euro 20 rings.

In these photos you can see all materials

The INA bearing NK 8 / 16

INA spacers of 2.75 and rings (2 in and 2 15x2 8x2)

start with ... installation, you must first remove the cushion plain, for this we use a small spanner, a wrench and a vise, it's easy, just have to be careful

Gradually end cap comes over, what we do in the two eyes to come out whole. Once this is done we can "embed" the bearing, as I said earlier the problem is it did not come under pressure to solve this we use a small tin chapita drink, just a small square of it, we take a tiny drop of grease to slide and use the bank to go putting the bearing in the picture you can see the metal plate and as I getting the bearing with the vise at the end should be the same distance on each side of course.

Well! once done this because we have little except put the rings and spacers and adjust the invention to the bike. for it before anything will get a good amount of grease in the bearings and parts that will suffer friction. Furthermore, the fat will be a good repellent and water and moisture to keep the joint Aydar tight.

We then put the rings and now if we approach the bike to install the set, as you see small O-rings fit perfectly into the recess in the outer face of the bearing and large conform to the outer diameter of the bearing

Nothing happens if much fat, then clean everything. Now we go to the bike and put the screw shaft, and spacers, here also give good fat, I put first the best front clamping but I stop at the rear looks better.

As you can see not much mystery, simply and with care not to pinch the rings align the buffer, pass the screws and screw-axis, before it is appropriate to remove all excess fat, so yes, here we are not interested to overtighten, just do not have all clearances, for this we give the wrench in the Table, 5 to 7 N / m, in this case gave 6 N / m.

Well, we're done, and this is the end of the manufacturing aspect

After a few outings a bit "Gross" with some other saltillo for allowing the bike the whole remains perfect even after going through the wash at the pump (without abusing the little hose in the area of \u200b\u200bcourse) and after removing the invention to see the bearing condition, toric, etc. I have to tell you it works perfectly. No gaps of any kind or make weird noises, only stopped when you raise a little hand bike pulling a tiny saddle notes coming from the game play that make the needles of the bearings, but that disappears when on the go or uploaded on the bike. Not like riding the thing after years and continued use, but in the worst where you buy another set of bearings (which is what you can crack at any rate) and run.

Furthermore say that in terms of performance and use of cushioned softness in relation to the plain is much higher.

On balance, taking into account the total cost was 25 euros I think you can get a home semi solution a lot better than bushings and reducers. The reality is that INA is expensive, so even you could get a lower price with standard brands of bearings and spacers

2 x INA Needle Bearing NK 8 / 16 (8mm inner diameter, 15 external and 16 wide or race) - Part 8 euros 4 x Spacers

LS-0821 INA (8 mm internal diameter, 25 mm outer diameter, 2.75 width) 2.5 euros

piece 1 x Bag toric small (8 mm internal diametreo, 2 mm thick) 2 euros per bag of 20

toric toric

1 x Bag (15 mm internal diameter, 2 mm thick) (he has given me a buddy, but I guess it will be worth the same)

foromtb

Since there has been some criticism of the prototype on the grounds that it will not resist, resist and resist and now I have more than 30 mixed-type outputs.

My

way of seeing the whole has two faults: the first is the inlaid with chapita (the greatest of all from my point of view) but can not think of another solution, and the second that of the O-rings, but as I said, for the price they have, because when you have to do maintenance to the shock are changed and ready.

In response to key questions about the group, which is reduced to that sits directly on a steel shaft of 8 mm without using a bolt my opinion is as follows

The

reducing any bike caps are also supported, and much more "beast" on the shaft, and do not have This loose or deformed, but normal, the only application that has the bolt is to support the two ends of the brackets in one piece to give more consistency to the set, but ultimately ends up affecting a pressure-rings, This makes sense when the distance between supports is great, because needle bearings of this size over 16 or 17 mm stroke do not think it, but in small distances is totally unnecessary. According to this criticism also would have to put a bolt to the wheel axles of 9 mm, and notice that there is is where all the weight loads and is a permanent and continuous rotation and that does not sag or wear out except normal.

tightening I've gotten is that recommended by the bike, 6 N / M, more or less, so tight that it will not "loose" is as it should go, what I meant is that we should not overdo the tightening so as not to break the rings, but that's going to happen with anything, not just with this.

After some departures confirm that the shaft is not loose and initially did not suffer more wear than can sufir with plain, well, what the hell is that it wears much least when bearings. And in any case with a little fijatornillos and ready, this does not turn, pivots and only a few degrees, and these bearings are designed precisely to avoid wear, otherwise the bushes.

And like any system overhead because we have to review from time to time gaps and so on, so if you need to review and change is the ring by security to keep out water, I guess once a year will ideal. But little more ...

simply charge 70 euros for a kit that uses lower quality bearings (INA is clearly the best in this sense) seems a little scam, this is achieved for much less money and with better quality than component level, the washers are calibrated and bearing (and I believe that this is not necessary either) and in any case if you want put a pin, I do not make bolts justify the 40 euros of difference of this prototype with respect to what we sell is sold on the market today, especially when a company can get attractive discounts for volume.

can follow the discussion here

http://www.foromtb.com/showthread.php?t=575993&page=1

The next kit I'm gonna ride I'm going to get for 19 euros, I did the calculations for rs-buying and other online sites

Greetings bikers and see for roads!

Swedish Large Breasts

to know to change cushion

Hello Bikers!

turns out the other day I decided to change the rear shock of my Decathlon 9.1, an X-Fusion O2, for a brand new Fox RP2, which was also in ChainReaction offer for 111 euros, well, I order, wait a few days and finally when I am about to change I start to give face to face with all aghhh!. So after some research on topic I am going to comment that things need to know about rear shocks and mountain bike

Let's do a little review of basic concepts. What will I do with air springs and oil, because the spring does not control them all. The first thing to consider is that there are three key actions to be taken into account, we will enumerate and analyze each

1, Length between "eyes" of the shock. Is the distance between the center of each of the loops of the shock. The will measure from the center and not from the ends the shock, I'll explain in the next photo with FOX and a green stripe is very clear. The most common distances are usually 165mm, 190mm, 200mm and 216mm, although there are a few more.

2 The "race" or the actual distance the shock can travel or compressed. Tours are usually 38mm, 50mm and 63mm. Normally this trip is on the amount of "bar" visible, but it has not, ie, there may be a little more visible bar, for example in a bar FOX that I have seen is 53 mm, but the cushion covers only 50, the latter being 3 mm useless, I guess this is already a matter of design. I put a photo.

As

imagine, manufacturers categorize their mixing dampers measures the length between eyes and the race so you're any shock of any brand you'll find listed in measures with values \u200b\u200balmost always similar to these, usually expressed in millimeters and inches, 152 x 31mm (6.0 x 1.25 "), 165 x 38mm (6.5x1.5"), 184 x 44mm (7.25 x 1.75 "), 190 x 50mm (7.5 x 2.0 "), 200 x 50 or 57mm (7875 x 2.0 or 2.25"), 216 x 63mm (8.5 x 2.5 "), etc.

Bien, llegados a este punto hay que hacer una aclaración muy importante, si quieres cambiar de amortiguador o comprar uno para un cuadro, debes comprar uno con las mismas medidas que el que llevas o el que admite el cuadro. Es muy importante utilizar las mismas medidas, luego veremos porqué, pero el motivo principal es que puedes dañar el cuadro, aunque como os digo luego lo analizamos.

3º Los espaciadores. Estos son unas piezas de aluminio que se meten a presión en cada lado de cada ojal del amortiguador, y son 4. En mi ignorancia pensé que utilizando los que ya tenía en la bici no habría problema, pero resulta que en esto también hay medidas y cosas a tener en cuenta, la primera is the diameter of the shaft with which you hit the cushion to the frame, this is usually 6mm or 8mm, and the second is the kind of space itself, and here if you have to be careful, because different manufacturers use different measures Manitou so, X-Fusion and Rock Shox has recently used the same size gear while FOX uses other measures differ in that on FOX on inside diameter of the shock eyelet is 15 mm, while the rest is 14, and the width is also different, this means that the adapters are specific. In case you dont know what pieces I mean if I put a picture sure you also identify the photo shows you the different types of measures to keep in mind when you know you need spacers.

Oh, one final note, in addition to data on manufacturers must take into account the spacer kits requested in two sizes, the total width between extremes, and the diameter of the shaft or screw in My bike needed four such spacers 24x8 FOX, I put a picture that much better understood.

Therefore, if you see a good price shock, always keep in mind the actions of these spacers to whether you that you are worth, and always ask the seller.

Finally there is a temptation to be resisted, and as you pointed out something before, and is buying a shock with more travel to increase the bike path, well, this is something that can not be done, because if you increase the buffer size, first you might not even fit in the box, and the second is that although you can fit the rear swing arm hit the table to have more travel, so you never put a damper more race because anything can end up cascade, if you want more travel is your turn to change the picture or change the bike, no more.

Well, I hope this will serve to liéis not like me, eventually I fabricated a device with a needle roller and some washers to create my own space, but that's another story that I will discuss in a little article

Greetings

bikers and the ways we are!