Hello bikers
turns out the other day, and as I commented in the post measures of shock, I could not reuse the gear of my X-Fusion O2 in a Decathlon 9.1. Anyway, I struggled to find reducing buffer at a reasonable price, everything was out of Spain was in my size (24x8) and the price with shipping I was more than 30 euros in most Sometimes it seems just a scam by four pieces of aluminum.
think about it I said "this can not be so hard" has to be something that can be done at a reasonable price. I came concluded that with a bearing and a washer was possible to get a better and even cheaper.
we detail the process with some pictures he understands best:)
first thing I had to take into account were the measures of the eyelet of the shock, and that was to replace all, in this case FOX be an internal measure of eyelets is 15mm measured with analog gauge, we must say that really the measure is 15 mm, are almost 15, but missing a few tenths, it suspuso me a problem because the bearing was not bought pressure to come to this I had to make a small aluminum chapita (in this case a can of Red Bull which is the finest I found) to pressing the bearing and not fall.
Needless to say, the first thing to do is remove our buffer "old" before starting the process.
What I get then is like taking all necessary measures, taking into account the total width, the diameter of bolts and the inner diameter of the new buffer.
First we need to know the total width to buy back the washers necessary in this case is 24 mm, for it is as reliable as measuring the width currently in your shock mounts
Then measure the diameter of the shaft-screw that holds the cushion to the frame, in this case 8 mm
And finally measured inside the new shock (Fox RP2), gives 15 mm
Well, at this point emepezó my paranoia on how to assemble the invention, my conclusion was that I needed something sturdy allowing for a better performance than plain damn, I conclude was that the best possible design would consist of a needle bearing on the shaft-screw is supported, so I needed some external diameter 15mm internal diameter and 8, any decent brand of bearings you have found some bearings INA needle for 8 euros each, very good, measuring 8 mm internal diameter, 15 mm outer diameter and 16 mm wide, so I was missing 4 millimeters on each side to "fill", this I did with two spacers INA of 2.75 plus a ring of 2 mm, this gives 0.75 mm wide, but we must bear in mind that we are interested in the ring have some pressure for us to seal the set. 0.75 These are calculated to eye, but so far have been successful, and in any case if some ring die for change, period, because the costs are ridiculous, 2 euro 20 rings.
In these photos you can see all materials
The INA bearing NK 8 / 16
INA spacers of 2.75 and rings (2 in and 2 15x2 8x2)
start with ... installation, you must first remove the cushion plain, for this we use a small spanner, a wrench and a vise, it's easy, just have to be careful
Gradually end cap comes over, what we do in the two eyes to come out whole. Once this is done we can "embed" the bearing, as I said earlier the problem is it did not come under pressure to solve this we use a small tin chapita drink, just a small square of it, we take a tiny drop of grease to slide and use the bank to go putting the bearing in the picture you can see the metal plate and as I getting the bearing with the vise at the end should be the same distance on each side of course.
Well! once done this because we have little except put the rings and spacers and adjust the invention to the bike. for it before anything will get a good amount of grease in the bearings and parts that will suffer friction. Furthermore, the fat will be a good repellent and water and moisture to keep the joint Aydar tight.
We then put the rings and now if we approach the bike to install the set, as you see small O-rings fit perfectly into the recess in the outer face of the bearing and large conform to the outer diameter of the bearing
Nothing happens if much fat, then clean everything. Now we go to the bike and put the screw shaft, and spacers, here also give good fat, I put first the best front clamping but I stop at the rear looks better.
As you can see not much mystery, simply and with care not to pinch the rings align the buffer, pass the screws and screw-axis, before it is appropriate to remove all excess fat, so yes, here we are not interested to overtighten, just do not have all clearances, for this we give the wrench in the Table, 5 to 7 N / m, in this case gave 6 N / m.
Well, we're done, and this is the end of the manufacturing aspect
After a few outings a bit "Gross" with some other saltillo for allowing the bike the whole remains perfect even after going through the wash at the pump (without abusing the little hose in the area of \u200b\u200bcourse) and after removing the invention to see the bearing condition, toric, etc. I have to tell you it works perfectly. No gaps of any kind or make weird noises, only stopped when you raise a little hand bike pulling a tiny saddle notes coming from the game play that make the needles of the bearings, but that disappears when on the go or uploaded on the bike. Not like riding the thing after years and continued use, but in the worst where you buy another set of bearings (which is what you can crack at any rate) and run.
Furthermore say that in terms of performance and use of cushioned softness in relation to the plain is much higher.
On balance, taking into account the total cost was 25 euros I think you can get a home semi solution a lot better than bushings and reducers. The reality is that INA is expensive, so even you could get a lower price with standard brands of bearings and spacers
2 x INA Needle Bearing NK 8 / 16 (8mm inner diameter, 15 external and 16 wide or race) - Part 8 euros 4 x Spacers
LS-0821 INA (8 mm internal diameter, 25 mm outer diameter, 2.75 width) 2.5 euros
piece 1 x Bag toric small (8 mm internal diametreo, 2 mm thick) 2 euros per bag of 20
toric toric 1 x Bag (15 mm internal diameter, 2 mm thick) (he has given me a buddy, but I guess it will be worth the same)
Since there has been some criticism of the prototype on the grounds that it will not resist, resist and resist and now I have more than 30 mixed-type outputs.
My
way of seeing the whole has two faults: the first is the inlaid with chapita (the greatest of all from my point of view) but can not think of another solution, and the second that of the O-rings, but as I said, for the price they have, because when you have to do maintenance to the shock are changed and ready.
In response to key questions about the group, which is reduced to that sits directly on a steel shaft of 8 mm without using a bolt my opinion is as follows
reducing any bike caps are also supported, and much more "beast" on the shaft, and do not have This loose or deformed, but normal, the only application that has the bolt is to support the two ends of the brackets in one piece to give more consistency to the set, but ultimately ends up affecting a pressure-rings, This makes sense when the distance between supports is great, because needle bearings of this size over 16 or 17 mm stroke do not think it, but in small distances is totally unnecessary. According to this criticism also would have to put a bolt to the wheel axles of 9 mm, and notice that there is is where all the weight loads and is a permanent and continuous rotation and that does not sag or wear out except normal.
tightening I've gotten is that recommended by the bike, 6 N / M, more or less, so tight that it will not "loose" is as it should go, what I meant is that we should not overdo the tightening so as not to break the rings, but that's going to happen with anything, not just with this.
After some departures confirm that the shaft is not loose and initially did not suffer more wear than can sufir with plain, well, what the hell is that it wears much least when bearings. And in any case with a little fijatornillos and ready, this does not turn, pivots and only a few degrees, and these bearings are designed precisely to avoid wear, otherwise the bushes.
And like any system overhead because we have to review from time to time gaps and so on, so if you need to review and change is the ring by security to keep out water, I guess once a year will ideal. But little more ... simply charge 70 euros for a kit that uses lower quality bearings (INA is clearly the best in this sense) seems a little scam, this is achieved for much less money and with better quality than component level, the washers are calibrated and bearing (and I believe that this is not necessary either) and in any case if you want put a pin, I do not make bolts justify the 40 euros of difference of this prototype with respect to what we sell is sold on the market today, especially when a company can get attractive discounts for volume.
can follow the discussion here
The next kit I'm gonna ride I'm going to get for 19 euros, I did the calculations for rs-buying and other online sites
Greetings bikers and see for roads!
0 comments:
Post a Comment