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For if peers, which for me was so far the best bike shop and parts of the world, literally, is plummeting at least with me I assure you that I spend a fortune with them. So imagine with less powerful clients

Besides no longer send you special promotions except those craps discounts on things that are worthless, and increasingly the more crap the product description and what you arrive, you are becoming a bike trail but

moved here my last

-Table Proceed FST PRO 850 euros, you are wrong and send me an FST TRAIL, to return to the fucking box a post office, which by 3 mm I can barely send because the limit is 105.

Horqulla Rock Shox Lyrik-170, extra unsprung without preload spacers. I send an email to tell you that Rock Shox has told me that the jetties have to give and to chain me to say anything, so the fork and

point

-Another Marzochi 22 LO I ask 120 and send me the 100, again with the fucking mail box. Interestingly

all the mistakes have been in their favor and never have sent me something more valuable than it had requested, in order.

Finally, until recently everything was ok in chain, but I get that the crisis is giving hard and gitaneo are being passed on to customers. For my part I do not buy more unless the item is just what they have.

I switched to mountain bikers and much better, less stock but cheaper and if you say it is a Rock Shox Boxxer send you a Rock Shox Boxxer in its original box with all the extras, and both times I've had problems has been to send an email and send without thinking what was missing, besides being much faster, lately in chainreaction orders are taking up to two to three weeks once the package is big, what I find totally unacceptable.

For my part the Chain have lost a customer and can give a lot for the jepe. And I say it one that you have reached make custom discount of 20% for the mere fact of being a good customer, but that was in the past, now the issue is more cumbersome and unable to offer a discount after a shit in products of 700, 800 and up to 1000 euros.

to buy some hoses, fine, but for something more expensive for me these are gone

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Chainreactioncycles How to choose a good protections? - II

compis Hello again!

Well, we will further analyze this a bit of protection. I have been reviewing the point I and I realized that I made a fatal error! and we have not talked about the gloves, and these are an essential part of protection, it is what primerito going to kiss the ground.

When you implement more aggressive MTB, no doubt it, you have to leave the gloves that let their fingers in the air, is sencillamene suicide. Although it is summer, you have to wear full gloves. In the world of gloves are the same "frikadas" in terms of fibers and composites in the rest of protections, so the price range is again very broad. However, it is easy to find something pretty decent at a reasonable price. Normally

for my departure "enduro" I use long gloves sold at Decathlon , are these that you see in the picture below.

you going to be a curious brown in summer, but for the price they have, about 10 euros, are the very best to use a bit more intensive than normal, you see he has small rubber protection on the of the fingers and the inside of the hand are padded and avoid scrapes basntante important, personally I like the feel they give and are very comfortable.

When we look even more protection for the hands because we practice drop, freeride, or some form risky these gloves are worth and there are no reinforcements to search hard or harder. In the same Decathlon can find some a little more advanced, but my opinion should carry more protection in the palm of your hand, but rather the protects the knuckles and carrying a rigid protection but with the shape of the hand on that part.

If you're looking for even more protection for your hands, you should seek specific versions of protective gloves, as the model of 661 Evo Glove, which again uses D30 compound to give maximum strength. Personally I find amazing. However you have also made similar models marks but in Kevlar fibers are highly resistant, etc. As always, better but more expensive ... It's the way life is!

See you on the trail!

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How to choose a good protections? - I

Hello bikers!

As it is now summer has come bikeparks season, a lot of output, many drop, many trails and ultimately, many host ... well I'll try to summarize how to choose the appropriate safeguards can and should go.

first thing I have to say is that I am no doctor or physical therapist or orthopedic surgeon, or physical, nor do I work at a bike crash tests (well, sometimes yes, but with myself) so I'll just tell you that I use and how I choose. Remember therefore you should inform the manufacturer before the protections you buy to see if they comply or not to final use you give them.

first thing I will say is that like most things in the MTB, it has evolved dramatically in recent years and now find materials in the protections that we could not imagine 15 years ago. As can be, smart fibers and composites, kevlar, carbon, etc, etc.

The reality is that you consider using more advanced protection (besides the helmet, because this is what you should always have and I assume it's there) when you start to use more raw in your bike, especially in the field, or when you start make routes with hills or areas "broken" than normal which may provoke falls. And in any case, if you want them to always use whatever you do, then all the better.

first thing to know is that the protections are just that, protections, but no lifeguards, the wearing kneepads, elbow pads and a helmet is not going to fight to break your leg or arm if beat is important, As always careful and analyze where your limits. However, it is usual to have fallen "soft" or "semi-soft" when we practice in a technical area as a trial bike, semi-descent, or just in areas where control of the bike is more difficult than normal.

For such situations it is practical or desirable to protect knees and elbows at least as they are the most prone to scratches, scrapes, bruises, cuts, etc, since they are often areas that receive the first impact .

For this first case are interesting soft protections as those sold 661 and other brands, but as the brand I normally use because I use their products.

Here you can see a photo of the knee protection. Veggie model is a simple version that will give us some protection against these falls soft. These protections will avoid those little scrapes and bumps, will not prevent you pop your leg if you fall over a cliff, but at least in that "soft landing" will crush the skin of the knee or elbow as little as possible. The protection system that uses are overlapping layers of neoprene. 661

Veggie

You have an addition that it does is protect the entire shin knee addition

And here

elbow

As you can imagine, these protections, and almost all have a problem, and ventilation, be prepared to sweat, especially in summer. The nice thing is that they wash very well and that you carry in your backpack to the bike and can be folded and weigh less. Thus, when see that it gets ugly, because you lose the holsters and more protected, but remember, they are soft protection.

Well, this should be sufficient for basic protection. But it may happen that you start doing a little more raw than usual, or just in your area the roads are more complicated and more prone to falls, finally, begins to be more risk and soft fall is already secured almost every ride and increase your chances of having a fall more complicated and therefore require more protection, but remember, only is that, more protection, are not infallible.

At this point you begin to consider using protection not so soft, and here you have two options, or buy protection rigid or soft materials that become rigid when they absorb a shock. This type of materials are eg D30 661, here you can see on video how it works, it's really interesting, because you can wear a soft protective (ie, more comfortable than a rigid) but it hardens when dropped and it protects more that layers of neoprene.

look at this video and you'll understand perfectly and is very interesting, the problem is that like everything .. gains a lot of money.

661 models that use D30 Evo models are

The most common option attained a level of risk usually high enough to buy yet rigid protections normally manufactured using hard plastics or similar materials. 661 also produced naturally, and are more frequently used when looking for complete protection, but here and sacrifice enough comfort and flexibility, so its use is becoming more exclusive descent, although it is common also use extreme enduro riders who practice or freeride. It looks like next to one arm, you see also covers the forearm. Protections are quite extreme and obviously not intended for use "Sunday" quiet. You have similar versions for knee and shin.

661 Race

Well, so far the first part of the most basic protections and not so basic that you can and should be used if are doing a more aggressive use and level of risk to your own XC bike or walk. As you see you have soft protection that you can use on a regular basis you will avoid small bruises, scratches and injuries from falls slightly.

In the next chapter we'll get to back and neck protection, as well as with dungarees and protection of those parts nobles. There will be a special chapter for helmets, because they are also emerging intermediate models between the standard and comprehensive center that require a bit more detailed study.

And speaking of helmets, remember, take it always, but always, in the head. You can make it very original and decorative in your box, but which is better is placed on your Seseras also by the prices at which you can buy today have no excuse.

See you on the trail!

Birthday Cakes Of Bicycles

New Project, Santa Cruz VPFree

Hello bikers!

Here we are, I'm all emotional, I bought today a special box, a Santa Cruz!, A myth! A legend!

I bought a box size M model VPFree, 215 mm stroke behind, brutal, I just do not me great grace of it is the color, color is shit. The brand color categorized as "sand" arena, but color, fuck clarita that if, pulling aguachinao latte, but it is a strange color, although I personally like, I think combinadolo with black and touches compenentes blue can be very funny.

Anyway, I went to Ltmracing in Madrid and they had this "bargain", but you know that Santa Cruz, offer little because they are very expensive in itself, but hey, the truth is I cost about 1000 euros less than the normal price, Pedro has treated me and the truth is that great, a very practical and very realistic, I went with the idea of \u200b\u200ba Bullit, but honestly there is no color compared to this picture, especially taking into account that comes with a Fox DHX 5.

Here you have some crappy photos of cellar, and I will be posting pictures of the assembly, will be very brutal, yet it's something I want Wheeler, "to see if I get" Regards and

see you on the road!

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exchange bridge between two bars and FOX 36, VAN FLOAT R and RC2

Hello Bikers! For

Pinillero following the fiasco, as I told you, scratch one of the bars of a Fox Float RC2 36, 160, great annoyance, because it is the fork that I use often in my Spicy, in addition to the seals took a lot of slack. Although I managed to fix a little sanding with sandpaper into the water, the truth is that was a bald ugly mu.

I put a couple of photic as was the bar in question.

This saves the fork to break the seals, but the play was a bit strong, as well as the ass is so going to deceive us. The fact is that I have at home is also a FOX VAN R 36 and 160 that use very little except to make a little goat, Enduro seals recently changed and the perfect bar, so I asked if the bars are equal can I swap? and by the way why do not I put this Enduro seals well and I put the R VAN original seals had no play? and the Enduro I put a little silly.

For these approaches, I decided to open the two forks interchangeable rods and seals, do not know if I could not do bars, but the fact is that you can, I comment on process and the tools we need.

• car engine oil
Ratchet
• with a glass of 32
• A set of allen keys
• dense neutral fat. A
• wrenches (I think 11 and 15) Nylon Hammer

This is all about tools, as you see, not much.

started ... The first thing we do is completely disassemble the FOX VAN R, to thereby be secured in a bank, or in my case hangs on a bike that I have to work with forks. Once done proceed to open the bottom bar separating bottles. To do this, loosen the nuts on the bottom, first a few laps alone, leaving a piece of thread to the eye.

Once we have it so, we give a few touches (few but dry) with a nylon hammer to remove the stems.

Now we can separate the bars of the bottles, my advice is to put it back on media and tapping des nylon hammer until they leave, but eye ; not completely separate the bottles without putting up an oil collects or something underneath the floor if you become a skating rink.

Well, we've got bottles and bars on each side. Now remove the roadblocks, to do just make lever from the inside with a spanner or a screwdriver taking care not to crack them and go.

Once we have the bottles out proceed to "empty" bars, here we go with a little care, because we have to remove the dials and use the ratchet with the vessel 32 and open at the top. With photos is better understood.

After removing the nuts, being careful not to scratch the inside of the bars we will draw the left leg and the spring rod, and the right cartridge rebound, which is integral with rod and top nut

Here you can see, from left to right, the bars, the cartridge bounce, spring and their offspring. To the right of the photo, next to the pier, you can see a small metal stop which is a sort of circlip, which is actually a spring that makes the cap is not disbarred.

To remove the metal stop you have to be careful when removing the pier, as it is quite weak and ought to remove it with a small punch or cutter and then slowly with hand.

Well, we've finished removing the bars, now is a good time to do all general cleaning, and would be a good time to change cartridge oil rebound, but in my case I have not done because the fork works perfectly.

now so what we have is this, a FOX FLOAT lined with clearance seals and FOX VAN R with its bridge and side bars intact

We will proceed to completely disassemble the FLOAT, cutting is very similar, but we must be careful in some points, because as you know FLOAT RC2 is the air and in control of compression at high and low speed.

started ... The first thing is to empty all the air from the fork so it does not leave anything flying, put the fork bracket and loosen the bottom screws, but in this case we must first remove the compression dials. We need an allen wrench small enough, can not remember the number, I think it was 2 or 2.5.

then remove the less that you commenting dials, each dial has a small hole that connects to a small nut that is the one to loosen, parts care are very weak.

Once we have access to black nut on one side and another procedure as with the VAN, but be careful, as you see in the picture above, with hitting cuidadin the hammer there as the van, the Compression protect it with a screw or nut cup and knocks on the glass rods to separate bars, I did not picture, but I think what I mean. Thus we proceed to separate bottles bars, this is not me because I roll up a lot and I explained as above.

Here are the bars without "emptying of the FLOAT" and the two pairs of loose bottles. On the FLOAT and

VAN

Now as to the VAN, proceed to "empty" bars, first remove the dials, and then extract the rebound cartridge is also integral with rod and top nut, and then the air spring.

At this point, opening the top closure of air, accederéis the air chamber that acts as the spring, in this chamber is about 5 cl FOX FLOAT FLUID liquid you will have to replace, if not disponéis of it, you can use very heavy motor oil, or oil cash changes with a sae high. In my case I did was pour it into a glass that had been reused and filled with a Float Fluid ampoule which was then

Here you can see what I mean

Well, when you get to this point you can remove the piston rod and the air, but it happens that you'll have to shoot from below, plus the spring does not come as easy as in the van because it will press against the walls, so you must first remove the lower metal cap, the process is equal to the NPV, here goes.

Once you've removed, you can pull the stem to remove it from the bottom. Looks like this, here you can see how an air spring, the spring piston and makes the top where you put the camera closes the air to make it watertight.

After you pull the rebound cartridge other bar and you're done, here you can see it next to the piston.

Well, we have completely dismantled the two forks, so we have two bridges with its bars, one striped and the other perfect. Two more rounds of rebound, and two springs (air and metal) plus two bottles, plus all the other parts you've left neatly arranged.

The first step in reconstruction is to clean everything to avoid any dirt in bottles or bars. The first thing we do is to put seals to the Float Enduro, which we will have it removed before it had clearance, this is easy, you need something to put pressure on a circular on the outside and catch some motor oil to lubricate the sponges.

Once we have new seals, rebuilt the bar, but using the VAN course, that does not have the peeling. For this we getting the rebound cartridge and piston air, it's easy, it is replace the parts in the reverse order that removed

When you go to get the air piston, you have to lubricate it with grease both the piston, especially the ring that surrounds it, as the higher end, you will avoid leaks and facilitate the travel of the piston, at this point do not stay short, it is better a little more fat than less, but do not have to spend, in my case I used the SuperSlick of Rock & Roll, but any neutral fat dense you better, even Vaseline for piston

To put the piston press without fear until the

Once you have gotten the piston FOX FLOAT replace fluid or motor oil to very dense or gearbox is a 5 cl, say a tablespoon, so to speak.

You can close the top of the pier air, for it put the nut carries the load valve, remember to give it full fat. For now apritala strong hand, but not hit him with the ratchet.

Then replace the metal cap and spring, and remember that this is very important to pull the rod so that it is fully stretched and then screw it well when you put the bottles.

sure that it is well placed, visually and tried it out with your finger.

Now mount the "new" bridge and bars on their bottles, do be careful not to annoy seals. And before you put the bars gives some fat on the inside of the seals.

Once the bottles are attached to the bars is time to lubricate, for it can use oil of SAE 10 or 15 suspensions, or if you prefer any decent motor oil you better, in this case I used Castrol car. The type of oil you use here is somewhat irrelevant, just try to lubricate metal. Echale about 25 ml to each bottle

After doing this, push the bottles until they pop out the threads of the rods.

now ride the dials below and put the nuts, do not go to press, the manual recommends 5 Newton / Metro, so that when the nut starts be hard, ready. A tip, when mounting the cartridge stem rebound, make the notches for the nuts of the dials are pointing out, if you will not be able to tighten because the metal piece through shaft will not allow you to work. I mean this.

Once you've done, you can tighten the nuts and put the lower dials. Remember to match the dial tightening hole with the recess of the anchor, if you can not regulate later.

not forget the cap

then tighten the top nut with the ratchet and put the dials above. With respect to tighten the top nuts, the manual recommends 25 N / M, so here you have to give a good grip but not forget your life, there is a point where it becomes clear that the nut is very hard, there must stop if you do not have torque.

When you put the top nut bearing air valve, my advice is to put some Vaseline on the valve to ensure sealing, Vaseline always 100%, without additives, find it at any pharmacy.

Once placed the two top threads properly tightened, replace the rebound dial

just finished the "rebuild" 100% in the absence of functional check.

Now we have to move air for proper operation of air spring. In my case I got 55 psi, which is the air preload I usually use enduro-router.

After putting pressure, the cradle stores the air perfectly, a priori there are no leaks, though will have to leave 24 or 48 hours without use to see if everything is ok in this regard. The last check we have to do is control the rebound and the rest of dials work, as well as controls at low and high speed, but this requires a field test I will this weekend. Although a priori everything should work fine, because I did compressions were no problems at home and have not touched anything rebound cartridge.

And this is the end result: Bridge and bars along with new seals provinientes a FOX VAN R in a FOX FLOAT RC2, goodbye to rayajo and play.

The FOX VAN, use the left rough, because I know the score more and that will eventually die at some point, so , although it works perfectly with the filing of the bar, preferring not be seeing the Spicy rayajo whenever riding, a lot line is that I do not have things in perfect condition, especially when they are almost new, as was the case with this fork, and besides that there is no slack checkpoints, so if it was a problem, because that can end your farewell to plain or bars.

The VAN R assembly not get, because it is easier than not having FLOAT air piston and lower dials, the rest is identical

Ah, I forgot, there is little difference between the left bar of the FLOAT and NPV is that the the FLOAT has a somewhat finer polishing inside, I understand that to facilitate more movement of the piston, although both are highly polished in itself, and with proper lubrication should not be problems.

bikers

Well, you know gutting a FLOAT and a van, both 36 and 160 mm of travel, I assume that the 180 will be equal. I hope you have been helpful.

A greetings and see you on the road!

Happy trails!