Hello again mates!
Well, let's start with our full range to learn to ride a bike from scratch yourself.
first thing you should know when you face a complete assembly is very obvious, but sometimes he forgets and gives rise to many problems later. Simple as it seems, the first thing you should do if you have the idea of \u200b\u200bsetting up a complete bike, is to decide first of all that painting you buy, and buy time, but always, the box first.
This seems silly, but it is not at all, would not be the first time you see a fork phenomenal price and think "ah! I buy it and then put it to the table that I liked "and then it turns out that when you buy the box and no longer manufactured or is exhausted for months or that the manufacturer has run the model used to your fork and in the end, you're in your home with a range of 600 euros which makes it a great service vase in your living room and you are forced to sell out or eat it with potatoes.
So remember, is very simple, but always first box. You buy it and once you start you have to buy the components. It is true that some things are not problematic if the shop before, such as decks, brakes, pedals, etc, but do not throw to buy things before you have the picture.
Well, once you clear this, you must decide which box to buy. The decision will come for the type of usage you make of your bike, but unless you're going to ride a downhill bike, or want to do some kind of freak complex, most of the tables have similar characteristics mounting.
Once you've decided on your table, the first thing you should know 100% is the length of it. The best thing you can do is try to prove a bike in different sizes in a store use the table you're buying loose, but if you can and you have to shop online, then say, "fuck" buy a box online without being able to ride the bike assembled? "
To help you know your size The first thing you should use the table foromtb biomechanics, is amazing, with that you will come out a very precise measurements, at times too. Take it as a reference very rough, but remember to take into account your personal tastes. Some are more comfortable with pictures a little smaller or larger than recommended. But do not deviate too much from what tells you this spreadsheet.
To help you know your size The first thing you should use the table foromtb biomechanics, is amazing, with that you will come out a very precise measurements, at times too. Take it as a reference very rough, but remember to take into account your personal tastes. Some are more comfortable with pictures a little smaller or larger than recommended. But do not deviate too much from what tells you this spreadsheet.
be downloaded from this link and get your action.
I invite you to visit the post foromtb biomechanics to help you discover more about the choice of size of the bike.
With
spreadsheet you will get two key measures to buy your picture without even physically seeing, namely
The measure called Top Tube (TT) and the measure from the center of bottom bracket to the end of the seatpost or the Seat Tube (ST).
These are the two essential steps to buy a box if you do not, can not venture that put L, M or S in size as each manufacturer does as he pleases. There is no standard sizes as there is in the shoes for instance.
The measure called Top Tube (TT) and the measure from the center of bottom bracket to the end of the seatpost or the Seat Tube (ST).
These are the two essential steps to buy a box if you do not, can not venture that put L, M or S in size as each manufacturer does as he pleases. There is no standard sizes as there is in the shoes for instance.
'll use a table model Lapierre Spicy brand to understand. As you can see in the image below, the extent of the TT is that is doing an imaginary line parallel to the ground from the center of the circumference of the seatpost to the center of the steering head. And the other measure in which we have to fix is \u200b\u200bin the ST.
With the information of the size recommended by the board of biomechanical measurements cross-manufacturer, will be capable of matching size. Sometimes. most, you'll find that there is no specific right size, so you have to opt for a slightly smaller or larger. It is as if there were only four shoe sizes, hard to find the exact yours, and if you find it, so that you had.
In my experience, it is always better to buy something a little (but only a little, talking about one or two maximum cm) smaller in the case of not finding our exact size, as we can always play with the length of post power or delay the saddle. Conversely, if you buy a larger size, without remedy, because you can not cut the tubes of the bike to make it smaller in the case of shortening power you see that you get comfortable to handle for instance.
In my experience, it is always better to buy something a little (but only a little, talking about one or two maximum cm) smaller in the case of not finding our exact size, as we can always play with the length of post power or delay the saddle. Conversely, if you buy a larger size, without remedy, because you can not cut the tubes of the bike to make it smaller in the case of shortening power you see that you get comfortable to handle for instance.
It can also be very useful to test a bike similar geometry to be able to see what your length of TT and ST adequate.
Go ahead I am not a sports doctor, and biomechanical issues are not my forte at all. This is a complex issue that must calmly assess and analyze. Every body has some special features, and therefore this matter should be studied carefully, then came the injury, pulls, back pain and others.
Like I said, is buying more than you value, because once you've bought the box, only you know if you'll be fine once mounted the bike, and that there is no turning back. The rest is less critical, if a fork is more sensitive to or less than another is a minor issue compared to this.
Well, once you clear the table and height, and you've hit the "saber" a visa card, you need to know what measures and standards that use your table to buy the parts in question. Most of the time all the measures that we will see you are provided by the manufacturer. But if you happen to not find them, or not being clear, we will see that things are what you measure and how so you can buy with confidence the other components so you can ride your bike to enjoy.
The ultimate goal is to get a list of the data you see in this picture. Pardon photo storage and paint tacky, but what we have ...
Let's start from the front to the back to see how we get all the steps that appear in the photo. It is important that at all times have on hand a caliper or gauge in a position to take action as accurate as possible, here a traditional meters is useless.
-ADDRESS
Depending on which fork to determine that you take. There are currently three types, is measured in inches and the diameter of the tube of the fork you have to put
-
1-1/8 - 1-1/5
- Tapered (up and down 1-1/8 1-1/5)
happens you have to identify the type of bowls that you ride.
There are three types:
There are three types:
- Conventional
- Integrated
- Semi-integrated
The truth is that this is a mess of the cups, so you need to read this article Park Tool to know which direction you need in the event that the manufacturer does not make clear
-ACTION SHOCK
tables usually come with their own shock, if not bring is extremely important that you identify as three measures. And I strongly recommend that you obtain from the manufacturer and not by other means.
-The distance between eyes
"The maximum race must
-cushion length should have metric sockets and screws
To learn how to assemble and measure this in the shock, I recommend you see my little article on Amort
BRACKET-SHAFT
predominate three measures:
- 68 mm
-
73 mm - 83 mm
Knowing what to measure is easy, just take a caliper and measure it. As I do in the next photo.
What you need to know besides this, is if your BB using threaded cups or not. This is something that is easily seen by looking through it. Whether or not you're using threaded cups BB30 system or Press Fit Shimano safely, such systems are under pressure, I will not get far with them because they are common and because I do a articulín separately.
If the bike has the media guide for the tense or put chains and think, you know the type you wear.
are of three types:
- ISCG (deprecated)
- ISCG'05 (the most common and it takes my picture)
- BB-Mount (placed between the bowl right and the box removed a spacer, I'll explain later) In theory, BB-Mount can be put on any bike, even without the ISCG we carry, but this does not make much sense.
To know you're wearing, if you have doubts among ISCG'05 and ISCG, with the next image will leave doubts. It is that you take steps in the box with the gauge and compare with this picture. The left is ISCG and ISCG 05 the right
-MEASUREMENT AND CLOSE THE SADDLE SEAT
usually indicate the manufacturer, but Again it is easy, you measure the outside diameter (as it will give you quick release) and interior (that will give the measure of the post)
abound seatpost measures and close, but it's common for the post are 30.9 or 31.6 and 34.9
close abound seatpost measures and close, but it's common for the post are 30.9 or 31.6 and 34.9
-LENGTH AND DIAMETER OF REAR AXLE
There are two main measures currently: 135 and 150. Know what you're wearing is easy, you measure (on the inside) from a wall to the other. And the diameter tends to be 9 mm or 12 mm. Most commonly, 135x9 mm in standard MTB bikes. Enduro bikes start axes carry 150x12 mm, and this measure is very common in DH bikes today.
-STANDARD BRAKE CALIPER ANCHOR
There are two types of anchor, and POST IS MOUNT, most bikes have the rear brake IS, is distinguishable Post Mount thread for how it goes. Although I put a picture of a fork in the box threads are the same, if you notice the difference is that in IS are parallel to the ground, and POST MOUNT perpendicular to it.
Eye with this, 99% of charts have IS behind but is beginning to become fashionable IS.
Once you have all these measures, and I mean all, you can start buying the components that suit them. The first thing I usually buy is the transmission, fork, handlebar power and, for without it, we can not continue with installation.
There is only one measure that is independent of the table and is the size and diameter of the end of the front hub. This will depend on the fork mounts, and typically will be 9 or 20 mm.
hope you have a little clearer what steps to take and how.
See you on the trail!
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